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Foodstuff offered to
our fish
by George J. Reclos, Frank Panis,
Francesco Zezza and Thanassis Moschou
This is a cumulative work showing what we have found to work
better for the fish we keep. Before going on, there are a couple of things that
you should keep in mind while reading the tables that follow.
1. We have not tried every single food which is in the market
today, so those are the ones which worked well for us while there may be far
better foods out there which we have not used yet.
2. One food may be good for one particular species in the
tank of one hobbyist while the same species in the tank of another hobbyist may
not touch it. Furthermore, the distinction between "like the food" and "eat it",
although subjective, is an important one. "Like" it means that the fish will try
to get as much of it as it can as quickly as possible. "Eat it" means that the
fish will finally eat it although it may take some time and only after it makes
sure that its favorite food will not hit the water.
3. Please note that most cichlids,
especially the large ones, will stick to one type of food and will not accept
any other type unless starved. This is not the correct way to feed them for many
reasons. To avoid this, you can offer them a
combination of 3 or more food types on a daily basis and 1-2 additional food
types 1-2 times per week. Ideally, the fish should not be allowed to feel "full"
if it goes for one of the food types only. It takes practice but it can be done.
4. Always take into account that smaller /
weaker fish will not go to the surface so you should take care to add food that
sinks quickly which will allow them to eat while the larger / stronger fish in
the tank are busy eating near the surface of the water. When growing fry, it is
essential to make sure that all the fry are able to take the larger sized food
before discontinuing the smaller one. If in doubt, offer both of them.
5. Do not overfeed. Fish should be chewing
all the food offered to them in less than 5 minutes. Uneaten food should be
removed especially if your filtration system is barely efficient and there are
no catfish in the tank. It is recommended to starve your fish at least once per
week (not the fry or juveniles). Your adult fish should be fed once daily. The
younger the fish, the more feedings per day should be offered. For fry less than
1 month old, this may be as many as 7 feedings per day, evenly spread during
the light period.
6. You can save a lot of money if you buy
the larger food packs. Most common food types are now offered in 10 liter packs
which are almost 60% cheaper when compared to the smallest packing size of the
same food. Some points to be taken into account: a) the large packs carry an
expiry date on them (or they should). If you can't consume all of it before the
expire date, it is better to use a smaller size or share it with a fellow
hobbyist, b) all commercial dry foods are very sensitive to humidity which may
destroy / deplete their nutrients or even become the host of microorganisms. It
is better to open the large pack and transfer the food you will need for 7-10
days in smaller packs (you can use old empty food cans for this).
7. If you want to feed your fish with live
food, you can look around you. Earthworms are everywhere, mosquito larvae will
be in every water body left out during the winter months, algae can by
cultivated in outdoor small tanks etc. In any case, it is very important to
ensure that the live food will not be the carrier of pathogens, which is a very
good reason to have your own cultures.
8. Last, but definitely not least, make
sure that you are feeding your fish the right stuff. As an example, feeding
vegetables to carnivore fish is a mistake which will have a direct impact on
their well being.
George & Francesco
|
Food (description / commercial name) |
Physical form |
Fish that love it (primary selection) |
Fish that eat it |
Comments |
|
Liquifry 1 |
Liquid suspension |
Fry
(0-10 mm) |
All
egglayer fry / algae |
Ideal
for first food and to promote infusoria growth. |
|
Baby
Star 2 |
Liquid suspension |
Fry
(0-10 mm) |
All
egglayer fry |
Ideal
substitute for Artemia. |
|
Protogen |
Pellets (sinking) |
|
All
egglayer fry |
Dried
infusoria cultures |
|
Baby
Star 4 |
Liquid suspension |
Fry
(over 8 mm) |
All
egglayer / livebearer fry |
As
a second food for fry - change from #2 at about 45 days. |
|
Tetra baby |
Powder |
Fry
(0-10 mm) |
All
egglayer / livebearer fry |
Start
at 30 days keep till more than 3 months. |
|
Dr.
Bassleer (small) |
Small pellets (sinking) |
Fry
(over 15 mm), all juvenile cichlids (especially Madagascan cichlids),
livebearers. |
|
Start
at 2 months, keep till more than 6 months. Make sure all the fish can
take it - else keep on offering powder food. |
|
OSI
Cichlid pellets |
Large pellets (floating / sinking) |
Paratilapia (all; over 10 cm), Cichlasoma pearsei, P. managuensis, P.
menarambo |
All
cichlids |
Excellent
all around food. |
|
OSI
shrimp pellets |
Large pellets (sinking) |
Paretroplus maculatus, Pseudoacanthicus adonis, P. leopardus, Synodontis
decorus, S. angelicus, S. notatus, Scobiancistrus aureatus, Platydoras
costatus. |
All
cichlids and most catfish |
As
a snack, every 3 days. |
|
Tetra bits |
Small pellets (floating / slowly sinking) |
All
cichlids, except the very large ones. |
|
Promotes
the red colors significantly. Available in large quantities. |
|
Tetra Arowana sticks |
Large pellets (floating / sinking) |
Parapetenia managuensis |
All
large cichlids. |
Excellent
food for large predators. |
|
Blue
Line Grade 122 |
Small pellets (sinking) |
All
juvenile cichlids (especially Madagascan cichlids). |
All
cichlids and most catfish. |
Especially
suitable for sand shifters (e.g. F. rostratus, Paretroplines etc.) |
|
Blue
Line Grade 58 |
Small pellets (sinking) |
Fry,
all juvenile cichlids (especially Madagascan cichlids). |
|
|
|
Tetra Prima / Discus |
Small pellets (floating / slowly sinking) |
S.
discus, S. aquefasciats, Pterophyllum scalare, all cichlids. |
|
|
|
Tetra Prima / for blue Discus |
Small pellets (floating / slowly sinking) |
All
blue Discus |
|
|
|
Tetra Prima / for red Discus |
Small pellets (floating / slowly sinking) |
All
red / orange discus. |
|
|
|
Tetra Min Pro |
Flakes (floating / slowly sinking) |
|
All
cichlids |
Offered
for more variety |
|
Ginger Brine shrimp flakes |
Flakes |
|
All
cichlids |
Offered
for more variety |
|
Ginger Cichlid-gro flakes |
Flakes |
|
All
cichlids |
Offered
for more variety |
|
Ginger Color flakes |
Flakes |
|
All
cichlids |
Offered
for more variety |
|
Ginger Brine shrimp sinking pellets |
Large pellets (sinking) |
|
All
cichlids and most catfish |
Offered
for more variety |
|
Ginger Marine flakes |
Flakes |
Most
mediterranean marine fish |
|
|
|
Premium flakes with earthworms |
Flakes |
|
All
cichlids |
Offered
for more variety |
|
Tetra Shrimp pellets |
Large pellets (sinking) |
|
All
cichlids and most catfish |
Offered
for more variety |
|
Tetra tips |
Vacation tablets |
small fish |
|
|
|
JBL
premium tablets |
Sinking tablets |
Catfish |
|
|
|
Hikari Cichlid bio-gold |
Pellets (slowly sinking) |
All
Malawi cichlids |
All
cichlids |
Excellent
food. |
|
Frozen shrimp |
Frozen food |
Paratilapia polleni, P. sp. “Andapa”, Cichlasoma pearsei, C.
nigrofasciatus, Malawi haps, Malawi m’buna, Juveniles of most cichlids
(20-40 mm) |
P.
managuensis, some catfish |
Once per week - should be cut in small pieces otherwise most fish
will ignore it. |
|
Frozen mussels |
Frozen food |
Juveniles of most cichlids (20-40 mm) |
Most cichlids, Paretroplines |
Once per month - should be cut in small pieces otherwise most fish
will ignore it. |
|
Mussels (live) |
Live
food |
Octopus vulgaris |
|
Keep alive in a separate tank. |
|
Fish
(frozen) |
Frozen food |
Octopus vulgaris. |
Paratilapia (all) |
Once per month |
|
Earthworms (live) |
Live
food |
Paratilapia (all) |
|
once / twice per week |
|
Mosquito larvae (live) |
Live
food |
Fry
(over 10 mm); all livebearers, all small fish, Juveniles of most
cichlids (20-40 mm) |
|
Use
your own tank to raise them - do not collect them from water bodies you
can't trust. |
|
Aquatic snails (live) |
Live
food |
Paretroplus maculatus, P. menarambo |
Paretroplus damii, P. nourissati |
Once / twice per week - keep your own cultures. |
Code:
Blue > Offered to Madagascan
cichlids Yellow > Offered to fry
Frank
|
Food (description / commercial name) |
Physical form |
Fish that love it (primary
selection) |
Fish that eat it |
Comments |
|
Dr Bassleer Biofish food |
granulates M
and XL |
All my adult cichlids |
All the fish |
Now my main
cichlid food again. XL granulates are fed to the Malawi
cichlids, M granulates are fed to my SA cichlids. |
|
JBL Grana cichlid |
partially sinking
granulates |
All my adult
cichlids |
All the fish |
Was my main cichlid food. Should
come in larger packages for convenience and cost reasons. |
|
JBL Novo Tab |
sinking tablets |
All my pleco's |
Pleco's + cichlids |
Food for all
fish. |
|
JBL Novo Fect |
sinking tablets |
All my pleco's |
Pleco's + cichlids |
Food for
herbivore fish. |
|
JBL Novo Plecochips |
s(t)inking tablets |
All my pleco's |
Pleco's |
Contains 10% wood what
should beneficial for the digestion of most pleco's. Smells more
than the other foods though. |
|
JBL Novo Tom |
Powder |
Fry (0-10 mm) |
Fry |
Fry raising
food that contains artemia. Works great in my opinion. |
|
Tetramin Pro |
Flakes |
The smaller fish in my
South-American tank |
All the fish |
Basically not needed , but I want
to grant the small fish to have their own specific food too. |
Thanassis
|
Food (description / commercial name) |
Physical form |
Fish that love it (primary selection) |
Fish that eat it |
Comments |
|
General comment: Actually none of my fish “loves” it’s
food (the cichlid way), with the possible exception of the Pe maculatus
and my home-made food. I just use the terms here only to indicate a
relative preference. After keeping them for seven months I learned that
madagascan cichlids can be really picky… |
|
“My concoction” |
Gelatin cubes, chopped as needed |
Paretroplus maculatus |
Paratilapia sp. “Andapa” |
It is nothing of a novelty, just another home prepared
food. Shrimps, mussels, squid, pear, broccoli, spirulina commercial
food, human consumption purposed multi-vitamin capsules, all mashed into
pulp, mixed with gelatine dissolved in hot water and poured into ice
cube molds, and put in the freezer. This ice cube form is rather
important IME. If you try to “cast” the gelatine in a slate-like form,
you’l have a hard time breaking a piece the size you wish later. |
|
Frozen shrimps (thawed) |
Chopped shrimp |
Paratilapia polleni, Paratilapia sp. “Andapa”
|
Paretroplus maculatus |
Whole, peeled, frozen shrimps (1-4 cm size) purposed for
human consumption (again), thawed and finely chopped. This latter is a
detail of importance, as I found that if the shrimp ain’t *finely*
chopped, fish will ignore it. Strangely enough, I might add, at least
for a cichlid. You may try to mash the thawed shrimps in a food
processor, and end up with a paste very firm that holds its consistency
in water pretty well, that is better accepted by fish and that is very
concentrated I must add. I have not tried to preserve it though, as it
was already frozen and thawed (at least) once. |
|
Tetra Bits |
Granules |
Paratilapia sp. “Andapa” |
Paretroplus maculatus |
- |
|
Wardley’s cichlid crumbles (and such) |
Granules |
Paretroplus maculatus |
Paratilapia sp. “Andapa” |
- |
|
Dr Bassleer |
Small Granules |
Paretroplus maculatus |
Paratilapia polleni, Paratilapia sp. “Andapa” |
- |
We would like to note that MCH is not sponsored by any
company or individual. The use of commercial names was essential for this
article.
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