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Starting a Marine Tank II


An Article by George J. Reclos

The main issue was to use something which would be nice and as effective as possible. If this was a freshwater plant I would simply add plants. Of course there are no plants to be used in a marine aquarium but there is something quite close to it. Macroalgae. After a short visit to my friend Minos Pagonis (you can see his tank here and you will immediately realize the difference between a newbie and an experienced hobbyist) I got some Caulerpa sp. (most probably Caulerpa taxifolia although I am not sure)  for my tank. I will confess I was really attracted by this "plant". I am now determined that (if the Caulerpa in my tank thrives) I will go for a marine "planted" tank !! On day 11, several cuts of Caulerpa were added in the tank

It is evident that the addition of Caulerpa changes the look of the tank !

Everyday measurements for the nitrogen compounds are a must since it is the only way to know where each part of the cycle has been completed. In the table below you can see all the values and additions done during the first 30 days of this tank setup. Day 1 is November 25th, since the tank was actually setup on November 24th. Density = 1.025, temperature = 27 C, water regularly added to compensate for the evaporation.

 
day NH3 NO2 NO3 add notes
1 >4 nd nd NH3/ 6 ppm bacteria
2 >4 nd nd NH3/ 6 ppm bacteria
3 4 nd nd NH3/ 6 ppm bacteria
4 4 nd nd NH3/ 4 ppm bacteria
5 4 4 nd NH3/ 4 ppm bacteria
6 2 6 nd NH3/ 4 ppm bacteria
7 2 6 25 NH3/ 2 ppm bacteria
8 0 8 50 NH3/ 2 ppm  
9 0 8 >50 NH3/ 2 ppm  
10 0 8 to 10 >50 NH3/ 2 ppm  
11 0 nd nd NH3/ 2 ppm Caulerpa sp.
12 0 10 nd NH3/ 2 ppm plant fertilizer
13 0 10 >50 NH3/ 2 ppm plant fertilizer
14 0 >10 >50 NH3/ 2 ppm KI / phosphates
15 0 >10 >50 NH3/ 2 ppm third filter
16 0 nd nd NH3/ 2 ppm KI, lamp
17 0 >20 >50 NH3/ 2 ppm plant fertilizer
18 0 nd nd NH3/ 2 ppm plant fertilizer
19 0 >20 nd NH3/ 2 ppm  
20 0 nd nd NH3/ 2 ppm  
21 0 nd nd NH3/ 2 ppm bicarbonates
22 0 >20 >50 NH3/ 2 ppm Calcium
23 0 >20 >50 NH3/ 2 ppm  
24 0 nd nd NH3/ 2 ppm plant fertilizer
25 0 >20 nd NH3/ 2 ppm  
26 0 nd nd NH3/ 2 ppm  
27 0 nd nd NH3/ 2 ppm plant fertilizer
28 0 >20 >50 NH3/ 2 ppm skimmer 2
29 0 >10 >50 NH3/ 2 ppm  
30 0 >10 nd NH3/ 1 ppm  

On day 15, a third internal sponge filter (470 l/h) was added to the system. Thus the total water turnover was increased to 2470 l/h. The addition of the new filter was done in order to increase the surface on which the bacteria can grow.  On days 12 and 13 a liquid plant fertilizer was added in small quantities (Thanks, Mike). On day 16 a third lamp (marine full spectrum) was added to encourage the growth of Caulerpa.

It is difficult to realize that this is actually algae and not a plant. In my case it is a matter of visual pleasure and effective usage of it.

Five days after the addition of Caulerpa I can't tell if it is growing or stalled. I can see some lighter color at the edges of the stems but no new "leaves" seem to come out. Parts of the branches have turned dark green which - although I am not a specialist - do not seem like a good sign to me.

 

A close up view which shows the almost "plastic" appearance of the Caulerpa.

Compared to freshwater tanks which I stock almost immediately (using aged water and already seeded filter material) the waiting stage is indeed prolonged. Patience not being one of my virtues I feel like tied on my chair. However my short previous experience has taught me that rushing it can only bring disaster. Up to now it seems the only real difference between freshwater and marine tanks is time. A marine environment needs considerably more time to be stabilized. Needless to say, more and more questions were asked to more and more people throughout this process. Yes, I have my books, I can see the graphs in there but I want to get as much information as possible.

See next page for more..

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