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An Article by Francesco
Zezza
When I
refer to “Cichlid’s friend”, I do NOT refer, as odd as it may seem,
to the fellow that runs the tank (best known as cichlidiots), but to other
fish(es) living in the same tank. There are some more natural interactions
– simply think of a Syno in a Tanganyika tank – and other, more or
less, NOT so natural tank mates. These latter are to be handled
conservatively, no matter how gorgeous are the fish you want to add to
your Rift Valley tank. To make things as clear as possible, I’ll NOT
refer to dither fishes, the keeping of which a habit I do not agree with.
To me, dither fishes find their roots in badly set-up, for whatever
reason, tanks. Having finished my short foreword, I’ll now switch to the
real point. To me, “cichlid’s friends” mainly means loriicarids
(commonly known as suckermouth catfishes and/or plecos)
For the Sake of curiosity:
it’s said that writing, in plain letter, the whole name pleco brings
bad luck to the fish, and that’s why the name is sometimes changed to
plec(s), pl*co(s) or something similar. From my own experience, I’ll
report of a pleco living in my tanks for 16 years now, having grown from
4cm (1.5 inch) to over 40 cm (over 1 foot) no matter how I write/type
his name.
Among
the South/Central American suckermouth catfishes (God bless common names),
the "Plecostomus" is, by far, one of the aquarist’s top
favorites because of their attractiveness and their active membership in
the “scavenger team”, being in charge of removing algae and other
waste. This fact may lead to some misunderstandings regarding the water
quality they will enjoy and/or tolerate and with providing them adequately
with appropriate foods and so on. These fishes are known to thrive in the
diverse (water chemistry) conditions but, please … DO avoid extreme
conditions. Their taxonomic position is, at the least, messy, and many are
still waiting for a scientific full description. Some grow “large”:
over two feet in length, other are quite aggressive/territorial; fighting
with their own, similar and/or other tankmates.
common pleco
GENERAL
WARNING ON CATFISHES:
In reality, no “pleco” shows long (not the bristles!) barbels.
Hence, as a rule of thumb, whenever you come to deal with a catfish with
long, sensible, thin whiskers … beware. These, generally speaking, are
prowlers, which use these whiskers to hunt in the dark. They gently move
around their barbels and whenever they “hit” something somewhat
“tasty” and related to food … they bite, rip, swollow! No need to
explain what I’m referring to when it comes to a secluded quarter (no
matter how big), as a tank is …
As
a matter of fact, for all the above reasons, except for the last one, of
course, these “plecos” get a lot of attention. That’s why I’d like
to discuss these fishes a bit. Successfully keeping, loriicarids is
neither that difficult nor anything “mysterious”. After having had, in
my tanks, a number of loriicarids second only to cichlids after a
collecting trip to the Amazon forest, here comes my humble opinion.
Principal points to look after are: selection of specimen(s), proper water
quality, habitat and feeding.
Ancistrus
from Rio Orosa
PLS
NOTE:
These catfishes are a huge assemblage: something like 34 families, 412
genera and about 2,405 described species increasing almost daily in
number, classified in the Order Siluriformes. Among them, the
suckermouth catfishes (family Loricariidae) collectively known as "plecos"
by hobbyists, are an enormous group themselves. Before going further, it
is fitting to mention the "L" numbers and the group. Some time
ago, a German hobby magazines initiated an "L number" labeling
scheme to identify images of otherwise unidentified species of the
family. As they are scientifically described, such numbers are retired
... even if things, in reality, are not that plain.
These
fishes are found in a lot of different freshwater environments. Among the
most commonly offered Loricariid Genera/Species is the Genus Ancistrus
(Bristle/Bushy-nosed pleco), well known for their prolific algae eating
activity, ability to leave plants alone and, furthermore, tolerating
harder, alkaline water much better than other loricariids. Now, let’s
review the main needs of other most commonly kept “plecos” in order to
find a suitable, whenever possible, matching point with cichlids needs:
The
catfishes of the Ancistrus group
are relatively hardy and, most important, stay small (not exceeding, in
many cases, 15 cm - 6 inches of T.L.) and thrive in water of near neutral
pH, lower hardness and tropical temperatures. Then there is the genus
Panaque, though only two
species are offered in the hobby, and never cheaply: Panaque nigrolineatus
and Panaque suttonorum (formerly P. suttoni) mainly from Columbia but also
Brazil and Ecuador. These fishes grow respectively to 16 inches (40 cm)
and 9 inches (> 23 cm), in length, in the wild . Oddly, Panaque need to
bite/chew/eat wood to have a complete and healthy digestion. Genus such as
Glyptoperichthys, or Liposarcus
are giants among the Loricariids: beware of them! Or at least, be
conservative before buying. On the other hand, there is the Hypancistrus
zebra (member of a monotypic genus; fish discovered in 1991) showing
an attractive black and white striped coloration. It stays small (10/12
cm) and, despite the fact that it is only an “algae-cleaner”, it is a
popular loricariid collected in Brazil's Rio Xingu. Tank-bred specimens
have begun to be available, but whether wild or tank-raised this fish is
EXPENSIVE! Finally the most commonly imported "pleco", Hypostomus
plecostomus can stretch up to 50 cm (20 inches).
Ancistrus
spawning attempt
PERSONAL
REMARK:
I’ve kept, or am currently keeping, the following “cats”;
Hypostomus plecostomus, Glyptoperichthys sp. (likely multiradiatus);
Hypancistrus zebra, “Gold Nugget” pleco, Hypoptopoma sp.; Ancistrus
sp. (8 specimens!); Panaque sp.; Cochliodon hondae plus a few more that
I, at the moment, do not remember. The latest addition being
Pseudacanthicus leopardus (L114): two juveniles. Here is what I’ve
learned on (selecting/handling/keeping) them:
What is worth
checking when looking for an healthy loriicarid
Look
for healthy fishes. This is a fussy, difficult task, but is, all the same,
the only possible correct starting point. Of course, none is a magician
but taking into account these few point should help:
FOREWORD:
The majority of Suckermouth Catfishes are wild caught and, thus, imported.
It’s said that sometimes some shipments are 100% DOA (Dead On Arrival)
but, luckily, my own one and only experience (exporting from Peru) faced
almost no troubles. Also their conditioning showed few troubles (BTW: one
fish jumped out ot tank. Yes; catfishes do jump!!!) even if there are
reports to the contrary stating heavy losses within few days of arrival. A
long trip is, always, a stress no matter how they are cared for. A few
generalizations, any way, can be followed:
·
Look
at the whole group: are they “fat” (always considering the trip)?
·
Check
the abdomen and eyes: sunken? Well, that’s a bad sign.
·
Fins
are intact, with no withish stains? Is breathing normal? Then chances are
you’re facing good quality specimens. These are points I considered in
Iquitos when adding some more specimens to my personally collected ones.
·
Blood
spots, mostly along fins and belly area should suggest, to me, to refrain
from buying (but this rules apply not only to “plecos”).
·
Look
for active specimens (fishes in good health are “curious”, always
seeking for food)
·
Choose
fishes that have spent few (at least) days in your lfs tanks. This habit
should diminish the risk of buying “poisoned” – from, let’s say,
ammonia – fishes. If they're going to die, they generally do so within a
few days.
·
Once
at home, for better security, treat them against worms with proper drug(s).
Be conservative!
Common
pleco (close up)
Environmental
Conditions
Take
your time to find healthy specimens and to condition them, then do nothing
more than provide them with, guess what? An appropriate habitat made of
dark spaces, perhaps some live plants, and clean moving water of high
oxygen level. You will find them to be extremely hardy.
NOTE:
Most species are nocturnal in the wild. All the same, many of them tend
to become crepuscular to diurnal in captivity.
My “Gold Nuggets” needed over one year to get used to full
lightning and the only one I presently have is, still, utterly shy. My
old aged plecos don’t care, at all, about lights. Remember; this is
NOT a general rule.
Chemical/Physical
Many
species, mostly among Ancistrus, display a wide tolerance to given
standard aquarium-utilized parameters, living well in soft to hard, acidic
to alkaline (5.5 to 8.0) waters: not that strange that they are in the
cichlid keeper’s top list. Other species display less tolerance. No
generalization can, here, be made (some of the species I mentioned as
personally kept have lived – and live - in alkaline environment, namely
a cichlid’s tank, with no detectable problems). As a rule of thumb, wild
specimens are more fussy, which is not that uncommon. All the same, you
should have no ammonia, nitrite, and low nitrate rates. This simply means:
undercrowd (the tank), underfeed (fishes), properly filter, and do regular
maintenance (in partiial water changes). If summer temperatures rise too
much, cut back on your lighting and increase/add aeration. This should be
common wisdom, any way.
Plecos
feeding at night
Filtration
Use
a combination of mechanical, biological plus possibly chemical filter; as
long as it does not disturb your plants, you can have water turbulence.
Weekly water changes of 25% are recommended (even if on this point,
personally, I’m not that fussy).
Handling
Despite
the rough look, these fishes should be handled with a LOT of care, as
little as possible, and only with extemely fine meshed nets or guided
containers without net. Beware of their spiny dorsal and pectoral fin
spines. If you use a net to move them, consider reversing it into the
intended system's water and let the catfishes release by themselves. In
worst cases, simply cut the net around the fins/spines and wait for them
to get loose.
PERSONAL
REMARK:
a friend of mine is, now, facing this trouble for having, uncarefully,
netted a few Pimelodella and I, myself, had this trouble with my Malawi
Synos a while ago. Special hand-nets to deal with catfishes are on sale;
but are hard to find and expensive a bit over the average.
Behavior:
Territoriality
Some
loricariids are highly territorial toward conspecifics. To name a few:
Peckoltia “clown” and Panaque. Parasitic sucking on tankmates by
loricariids should, generally speaking, be regarded as a
result of starving and/or food deprivation: you need to supplement
their diet.
Introduction/Acclimation
(in your tank)
This
fishes do better in well-established (long cycled) systems; particularly
ones where there are live plants that have become firmly settled and are
growing. Most species are best-utilized as single specimen in each tank,
unless you have plans for spawning them (it’s not that easy, with few
exception) or a very large system. I keep my two giants in a 750 lt tank
(200 Us gals) with no troubles from years. BTW: Don’t expect your plants
to thrive when sharing their living environment with these “monsters”.
Reproduction,
Sexual Differentiation:
I’m
approaching (trying, anyway) the reproduction of Ancistrus, and though
they are said to be one of the beginner’s best choice, I have had no
luck up until now, but it has only been a few months. Sexing loricariids
takes a trained eye, which I’m not that good at! In some cases gill
cover spines and pointed genital papilla allows you to tag that given fish
as a male, and in most species sexually mature males tend to be more broad
in the head. Looking at the females, they are decidedly broader and
rounder in appearance. Mixed species are usually shipped together, and
sometime it is hard to detect who’s who. If interested in breeding you
should purchase and stock a large a group of that given species in your
tank, providing due circumstances (food, habitat, water quality) for
nature to take its course. Most species of loricariids are reported as the
male attending eggs/fry: i.e.: Ancistrus sp.
Feeding/Foods/Nutrition:
Types, Frequency, Amount, and Wastes
Improper
feeding/nutrition is a main source of mortality with these fishes. Points
to check are:
·
Do
not place loricariids in new, or overly cleaned systems, they may die from
lack of food.
·
You
must, expressly, provide foodstuffs for these suckers, (especially if
keeping them in unplanted/under-planted tanks. Most of mine are fond of
zucchini.
·
Last,
the "wood trick". That is supplying your Suckermouth Catfishes,
no matter their genus, with some submerged wood as a needed dietary
addition.
Mixed Matters
(Diseases, Parasitic, Nutritional, Genetic, Social and more)
Those
fishes are, I would like to again point out, barely armored against poor
water quality and are susceptible to "organic pollution".
Maintain water quality as hign as you can. On imported specimens, internal
worms and gill flukes may result in hard troubles. During quarantine, feed
your new fellow(s) a medicated (anti-parasitic) food for at least a week.
Otherwise, you can rely on metranidazole/flagyl (that’s what I did,
btw!). Captive-bred specimens are, of course, almost always gill and
internal worm free. Infestations of ich – please not! - can be handled
with green malachite (no personal experience at all, knock on wood!). Do
not use too much salt, which is quite common when dealing with cichlids,
or metals (copper) on catfishes since they could die from these treatments
more readily than the apparent cause you're treating.
To finish up:
The
Suckermouth Catfishes, beyond being the "world greatest algae
eaters" for planted and unplanted aquariums, are also, for the most
part, peaceful and industrious, readily available and interesting
behaviorally. These considerations and the diversity of this family of
catfishes offers a lifetime of opportunities to study/look after their
keeping, breeding, as well as an opportunity for a lot of experimentation
and, above all, fun.
BEWARE,
IN THE END:
You’ll find these fishes to be extremely addictive! Sooner or later
you’ll find yourself involved in setting up a tank aiming, only, to
their own needs. Then, please, don’t blame me … you’ve been
already warned in time!
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Text and Photos by
Francesco Zezza |
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