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Keeping Temperature under control - 2


An Article by George J. Reclos

Low temperatures

 Characteristics: Higher oxygen levels, higher carbon dioxide levels. Decreased rate of  metabolism and aggression, considerably longer carrying times for the females (especially for mouthbrooding females), lethargy, fish close to the bottom. In extreme cases death will occur.

 Heaters. Ok, I am sure everybody thought of that. This is the best solution because a) it heats the water gradually, b) the heat is distributed evenly if the heaters are correctly positioned and c) they can keep the water temperature constant. Other advantages are that they are cheap, you can place them anywhere you like (I prefer my filter compartments) and they are practically maintenance- free (although removing accumulated salts or algae will help). Disadvantages: consumes too much electricity (it is usually the unit that consumes more than half of the total energy needed to run your tank). Relies on electricity.

 Air conditioners. The same as above is true in this case, the only difference being that now the air conditioner will be used in its “heating” mode. Relies on electricity.

 Power blackouts. As already mentioned low temperatures can be accompanied by power blackouts. Although the two methods already mentioned are the ideal ones to keep your water warm, they need electricity. The use of a UPS is not recommended, since a 200 W heater will drain the battery within 45 minutes alone. And of course, you can’t plug your air conditioner on a UPS, it will not even start.

 Fireplace – warm the place. An alternative (in the case of a blackout) is to use natural heating resources, like a fireplace. Of course, the tanks should be in the same place with the tanks (neither the fireplace not the tanks are “mobile”) and a working chimney is absolutely essential. Never try to heat a place with an open fire. Apart from the danger of setting the place in fire, the place will be soon saturated with carbon monoxide and dioxide, two [extremely] poisonous gases both for the fish and you. Bear in mind that these two gases do not smell and they will gradually suffocate you.

 Fireplace – heat stones / water. Another option is to use your fireplace to heat some water (or rocks) and then add it to your tanks. This option can only be used as an emergency for a small number of small tanks. Heating water is always preferable because of its huge heat capacity.

 Gas – boil water. If your place has a supply of natural gas you can use it to heat water, which you will have to transfer and add to your tanks. Again of limited use since this will only be feasible for a small number of small tanks. As said above, you need to add too much hot water to warm a big tank. Surely carrying it in buckets was not your idea of enjoying fish keeping.

 Calculations – Do it Yourself

As a general rule (to calculate the amount of hot water you need), you have to make some very simple calculations. Each ml of water needs to give or take 1 cal in order to change its temperature by 1 degree Celsius.

First step: How much water do I have in my tank? Each liter is 1000 ml.

What is the temperature of this water? Let’s say 20oC.

How much do I want to heat it? Let’s say you want to raise the temperature by 5oC.

In this case, every ml of your water needs 5 cal, or 5000 cals in all for each liter.

If you heated water to 100oC (boiling water) then, each ml of the boiling water will give you 75 cal before reaching the temperature of 25oC where no more heat exchange can occur. Thus, in order to get the 5000 cals you will need 67 ml of boiling water for each liter in your tank. For an 100 liter tank you will need 6,7 liters of boiling water. The result will be 106,7 liters of water with a temperature of 25oC.

 The formula goes like that   Vadd = Vinitial  * (ΔT1 / ΔT2 )

 Ok, don’t panic – not yet.. It is really very easy.

 Vadd is the volume you have to add. You want to find it isn’t it?

Vinitial is the volume of the water you want to heat (your tank). Surely you already know that, isn’t it? Both volumes should be expressed in the same units; both should be expressed either in ml or in gallons, liters or whatever. Up to now there is nothing you can’t do.

ΔΤ1 is the difference in degrees (F or C) between the temperature of your water in the tank and the temperature you want it to reach. If your water has a temperature of 20oC and you want it to reach 25oC then this ΔΤ1 is 5. Simple, isn’t it? Even if you want to cool your water (from 25o to 20oC) the result is still 5 (not –5; it is the difference that matters not whether it is up or down).

ΔΤ2 is the difference between the temperature of the water you heated and the temperature you want your tank water to reach. If you heated your water to 100oC and you want your tank water to reach 25oC then this number is 75. Then you just do the calculations. It doesn’t matter if you use oF instead. Again you have to use either oC or oF in the formula, not both.

 This article (as with all my “fishy” articles) is rather simplified. The aim is to allow the maximum number of hobbyists to have an insight in these matters. In many cases simplifications have been made which – hopefully – will not annoy those who know. The author always welcomes comments, corrections and/or amendments. It is my belief that no article is ever “finished”.

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Page last modified on 26/02/2002  

 

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