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Building our
fishroom 3(Frank's project)
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| As I'm
definitely a Malawi cichlid fan, and I'm also the proud owner
of a huge basement (2 cellars of both 30m²), it's obvious that
these 2 elements have to meet after some time. And yes, I'm
talking about a fish room! The first cool cellar still is in
use for storing wine, equipment and tools that are not used
very frequently. The second cellar on the other hand is a lot
warmer because of the presence of the central heating system,
what makes it ideal for installing tanks to breed, grow, treat
and observe cichlids. This installation is not very
sophisticated, so heat escapes from the stainless steel
chimney and the cast iron parts of the boiler. Just by
installing double-glazed cellar windows, I'm able to keep a
nice minimum temperature of 22°C/72°F in winter, what makes
this cellar a subtropical environment the whole year through.
The only thing that needs extra attention, is the insulation
of the walls to prevent condensation. Before I installed
styrofoam boards, the water dripped from the walls what caused
mildew. |
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The central heating, double-glazed cellar window and 4cm thick
wall insulation |
At the
moment I only have 3 tanks in the cellar, but this amount will
soon grow.
1. A 140L (40G) glass fry raising/hospital tank. Filtration
and heating is done by an Eheim 2329 pro canister.
2. A 300L (80G) glass fry raising tank. Filtration and heating
is done by an Eheim 2329 pro canister.
3. A
3000L (800G) show tank that's the temporary home for my
large Haps. When they move to the new kitchen tank this large
aquarium will be used to raise juvenile Haps. Filtration is
done by an Eheim 2229 pro canister, a giant sump and a trickle
filter on top of the tank. A 300W heater provides the
necessary warmth. |
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The 3 tanks
showed in realistic proportions.
3000L/800G show tank
300L/80G fry raising tank
150L/40G fry raising/hospital tank
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| As the
cellar is below ground level, my water change equipment
consists of 2 important parts. A submersible pump with a 7m
pond hose is connected to a large siphon for easy and fast
water changes. That siphon prevents water from flowing back
when the pump is stopped. The giant 3000L aquarium is emptied
in less than 25 minutes. The filling takes a lot longer, but
luckily a hot and cold water tap are available nearby in the
cellar. A sink on the other hand is not installed. When I need
to rinse some materials or clean equipment, they're put in a
tub and taken to the garage, where I have a sink with both hot
and cold water. |
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The waterchange pump, siphon connected to the existing sewer
and Eheim 2329 pro canister |
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electric installation is connected to a sensitive ground
failure circuit interrupter, what's essential for working
safely with aquariums and it's electrical accessories like
heaters and pumps. They should be installed in every fish room.
Digital timers are broadly
available these days, and one central device controls a
separate light circuit, so all tank lights are switched with
the same timer that's located near the fish room entrance. It
enables me to switch off or on the lights earlier than
programmed. |
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sensitive ground failure circuit interrupter and outlet
sockets mounted to the ceiling for electrical safety
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