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Fast
facts on Neolamprologus brevis
Biotope:
Lake Tanganyika (Africa, Rift Valley). Intralacustrine endemism and
colour morphs are present but, sad to say, no details were available
on my specimens (3M/3F).
Tank:
Mine were housed (alone) in a 90 lt (24 gals) tank, even though a 40
lt tank will fit a small school. A layer of soft sand and empty
shells at the bottom of tank is a must (see spawning), plantation is
at your leisere (Cryptocorinae sp. and Anubias barteri were used).
Water
chemistry:
Water temp in the range 24°-26° C; pH (as high as possible) 8.0,
nitrite / nitrate to be kept as low as possible (used to perform a
20% water change every two to three weeks - because of absolutely
undercrowded tank - to handle nitrogen cycle). Beware of too
"hot" water, at summer, in REALLY small tanks.
Spawning:
They took few months, after purchase, to grow adult and, completely
"relax" in their tank. Then (having been lucky enough to
get 3 pairs) after having begun to mate, they were … … "no
problem" at all. "Survival rate" is low (no specific
foods were used); no idea on egg's number (spawning took place
inside shells, see pic)
Food:
Pellets, flakes, frozen food. Only a remarks: be carefull to choose
really small (in size) food. My captive-born NL brevis were not
fussy at eating!
Tank
Mates:
I kept them alone, but it's said they're no problem if mixed with
other cichlids from Lake Tanganyika and almost the same in a
"hard water" community tank. Those fishes are good diggers
but their small size reduces the problem. Beware: void too big
tankmates (i.e.: a Cyphotilapia frontosa can swollow a shelldweller
with no problem and it fact, given the opportunity, they do so,
being fishes coming from the same biotope, and used (C. frontosa) to
feed, also, on smaller fishes.
Remarks:
Once arrived to almost 50 specimens (3 breeding pairs and offsprings
of many different sizes) on a sad day they (all!) were
"boiled" from a heater that, once reached the target temp,
refused to "turn off" (I was at work!) |
